Link to published article: Cruising Cartagena: A Worthy Destination.
Route planning can sometimes be more about what you choose to you miss out on rather than what you include. Time in country can be surprisingly short for many cruisers, as seasonal weather requires you to plot a destination and move towards it on a relatively strict timeframe. Often there is little room for detours and deviations; if a country isn’t on your track, it is left in your wake forever.
The problem is, unplanned destinations often crop up and fitting them in can become a priority. Colombia was never a name on our list of cruising destinations until we got to the Southern Caribbean, but the closer we got to South America the more frequently the name Cartagena cropped up. At the time our focus was on transiting the Panama Canal and cruising the remote Pacific islands, and a detour to a big city didn’t appeal. However, we were transiting from low-key islands in the Atlantic to low-key islands in the Pacific and an injection of high-speed would be a nice change of pace: A large sheltered bay, a busy metropolitan city, a UNESCO world-heritage site and the vibrance of the vivacious Latin culture—Colombia was our unexpected add-on.
As the date for our transit to Colombia neared, rumours started to spread concern. We were starting to hear reports of very strong winds, poor anchorages and crime off the north coast of Colombia, all reasons to avoid the country. The winds that funnel around the coast create a wind acceleration zone, resulting in high winds and steep seas. Would we be driving Ātea into a chaotic washing machine? Colombia has a history of violent crime. Would we loose everything in not padlocked to the deck or hidden on our bodies? Everyone spoke of rough anchorages and the need to stay in marinas. Could our budget survive?
The more we heard of Colombia, however, the more the sense of adventure outweighed calls for caution. As sailors, how could we not be drawn in by a city steeped in piracy, conquest and gold? As travelers, how could we not fall under the spell of a vibrant city thriving behind old fortified walls? We would get a break from our lazy sun-drenched Caribbean beach days and drink aquadentes under the twinkling lights strung above Cartagena’s rooftop bars and dance until dawn in the city’s most famous salsa clubs. We decided to re-draw the travel plan for the season. We decided to sail for Cartagena.
The Old Amid the New
Cartagena’s dramatic high-rise skyline rose up on the horizon as we closed our two-day passage from Bonaire to Colombia, giving us our first indication of the very different pace that lay ahead of us. As we entered through the eastern entrance to Bocagrande, our echo-sounder bounced from 10 to 3 meters, registering an underwater breakwater that had been built in the mid-1700s to close off the the northern entrance to the bay and force all access to Cartegena by sea past the heavily-fortified southern entrance. Old military forts that used to protect the Spanish from foreign invaders now stand idle, welcoming inbound traffic from all over the world. Today, the Port of Cartagena is Colombia’s main container port and processes around 1600 vessels each year, including container ships, cruise ships, bulk carriers, and the odd cruising yacht. The cannons that point seaward are no longer a threat to foreign interest.
Sailing past these 500-year old fortifications is a reminder that much of Cartagena’s past is deeply woven into its present. Old forts stand beside modern skyscrapers that line the shoreline of Playa de Bocagrande, Cartagena’s version Miami Beach. Empty turrets stand next to busy modern housing complexes and sections of fortress break way to streets and pedestrian walkways. La Cudad Amurallada, Cartagena’s historic walled city, is the most well-preserved and complete fortification in South America. As in the past, horse and cart roll down old cobblestone streets, however they are now interrupted by lengthy traffic jams. Perfectly preserved colonial architecture has been repurposed into swanky cafés, upmarket restaurants, local residence and boutique shops. The 11 kilometres of old city wall are a unique feature in itself, as it is possible to circumnavigate the city by walking on top of them. The old exposed brick covered in beautifully painted graffiti and covered in brightly blooming jacaranda is a perfect example of how the past has been perfectly woven into the present, creating one of the most beautiful cities in the world.
We enjoyed every minute of our time in Cartagena. We wandered through San Felipe de Barajas Castle and learned about the constant pirate assaults and colonial invasions and strolled through the convent and chapel of La Candelaria de la Popa, a beautiful church that sits atop the city’s highest hilltop, Mount Popa. We walked throughout the old walled city a dozen times, seeing many of the popular landmarks from statues of Simón Bolivar and India Catalina that stand in vibrant central plazas to gold museums, theatre houses, slave quarters and bull rings held within beautiful colonial buildings. We found a dozen or so Spanish colonial-style churches and cathedrals spread throughout the city. When we were done sightseeing, we soaked up the colourful Colombian environment: We relaxed in street side cafés, listened to buskers strumming local tunes, window-shopped outside upmarket designer boutiques, ate scrumptious local chow in hole-in-the-wall restaurants and gazed at the provocative murals and graffiti that are generously displayed throughout the city. It was ambling through these backstreets gazing at the magnificent street art that I was reminded of the list of reasons not to come to Cartagena, and crime had been top of the list. When everything that surrounded me left me buzzing with delight, I had to wonder what the negative comments were about.
Little Reason for Concern
And what of our concerns after gaining first-hand experience? Many of the streets considered too dangerous twenty years ago are now popular hangout spots filled with funky cafes and swanky bars, trendy artisan shops and local art galleries. Rough turned bohemian and the historically volatile neighbourhoods had transformed into a hip, artistic quarter that drew in international visitors by the thousands. While I was wary of pickpockets, I had no cause for concern in regard to serious crime.
Poor anchorages and restrictions to marinas were also mentioned, however we stayed just outside the Club Nautico de Cartagena marina with our anchor buried deep in the mud. The only rough movement we experienced was created by the daily tour boats that rushed past us during the day which stirred up significant chop. If you were doing Cartagena right, you were also busy being a tourist during the day and any daytime discomfort would be irrelevant. By the time you returned to the yacht, the tour boats were tucked back in their berths and the peaceful quiet of a flat calm anchorage surrounded by a city full of sparkling lights stretched out before you, a view no fancy hotel could match.
In regard to caution regarding strong winds, the place of greatest intensity is the waters between Punta Gallinas and Cabo Augusta. This should be approached with a good forecast, but this is nothing more than standard good seamanship for the area. The winds can be strong and the swell can be large, but with a proper forecast this isn’t reason to avoid the north coast of Colombia altogether. We enjoyed remote, peaceful bays of the Tayrona National Park and enjoyed the bustle of our anchorage in Cartagena’s busy port, planning our movement between them with a quick weather check. With time and prudence, entry into the country doesn’t warrant precautions out of the norm.
After experiencing Colombia firsthand, we start a new rumour: Cartagena is a fantastic cruising destination. The winds are manageable, safe anchorages are plentiful and serious crime is a carry over from a bygone era. Take your time, check your weather, trust your anchor and go have some big city fun. I came to Cartagena uncertain about what lay ahead, but it was a matter of days before I’d fallen for its charm. I could stay in the area for weeks, months, even years. Given a sturdy air-con unit, I could stay indefinitely. The people are friendly, the topography varied, the cruising options abundant. The city is a living history, a blend of the old and the new, the past and the present. It is radiant, vibrant, and absorbing. Adding Colombia to our itinerary was a fantastic diversion from our year in the Caribbean and a welcome shift from the Pacific islands ahead of us. If Colombia lays as a detour from your route, do yourself a favour: Rewrite the plan. Make sure you don’t look back and see it left behind in your wake. A dog-leg isn’t a detour when it holds all that Cartagena offers. It is the destination.
Atea 